The Rolex Oyster is 100; fresher than ever
The Rolex Oyster is 100; fresher than ever
The watch business enjoys a good anniversary, and this year, Rolex has at least two significant ones. The Rolex Day-Date, manufactured exclusively from gold or platinum, has been worn by the wealthy for 70 years. However, the milestone that the Crown has decided to highlight is the centennial of the Rolex Oyster.
Rolex’s simplest timepiece, with only hours and minutes, is considered one of the most significant wristwatches ever produced. The Swiss term “fiable” refers to a watch that is durable enough to withstand years of real-life use, rather than only being waterproof (which has existed since 1851).
The Oyster marked the beginning of Rolex’s identity. Rolex, founded 21 years earlier in London, was virtually indistinguishable from the majority of other early manufacturers until 1926. The oyster hit the motherlode. Rolex became the world’s most recognizable watch brand thanks to its name, which symbolizes the case’s fidelity. “Perpetual” was added in 1931 with the introduction of automatic winding.
The Rolex Oyster, introduced in 1926, and the self-winding Oyster Perpetual, introduced in 1931, established a watch legacy. All Oyster Perpetual models, including Explorer, Submariner, GMT-Master II, and Day-Date, share the same bloodline.
Today, with the exception of the dressy 1908, all Rolexes are oysters. On the dial, “Rolex Oyster Perpetual” comes first, before the model name. However, in conversation, “Oyster Perpetual” goes away; nobody speaks of a “Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller.”
Success caused a crisis of identity. “Oyster Perpetual” became a general term for any time-limited oyster. By the turn of the century, the OP line had become so stylistically diverse that it was identified by its lack of complexity rather than a shared identity. After Jean-Frédéric Dufour became CEO, the OP regained its strength, with a significant resurgence expected in 2020.
Rolex’s choice to clothe the Oyster Perpetual in vivid lacquer dials—turquoise blue, candy pink, coral red, yellow, and green—entirely changed the social standing of what had hitherto been the brand’s most basic timepiece. A watch that was originally picked by folks looking for a Rolex with the least amount of bother has suddenly become a desirable item. It even outperformed that year’s new Submariner.
People were willing to wait for, discuss, and pay a premium to receive it. The range was no longer considered “entry-level” after a turquoise-blue 41mm sold in Geneva for less than $70,000, more than 11 times its original price. Enthusiasm has deviated from traditional concepts of value.
The official anniversary watch features a 41mm slate dial and a 36mm Jubilee dial. The 41mm variant combines a yellow-gold bezel and crown with an Oystersteel bracelet to create a unique two-material look.
The watch features centenary highlights such as a crown with the number 100, a white dial with “100 years” at six o’clock, and the brand’s house green “Rolex” logo.
However, the 36mm’s multicolored Jubilee dial catches attention inexplicably. It reimagines a design initially launched in 1978 in a cheerful polychrome that fills the dial with letters in ten different colors. It remains to be seen which one will be the face of this centennial.